Tag Archives: Colorado

Quandary Cristo Couloir March 28

I got up a little earlier on Wednesday March 28, so I could attempt the Cristo Couloir on Quandary, a 14,265′ mountain just outside Breckenridge Colorado. I arrived at the main trail parking at 6:45 and spent fifteen minutes changing into my boots, SCARPA Men’s Charmoz GTX Alpine Boot – mildly insulated waterproof hiking boots that I’ve used for similar conditions for a few years. I got some nice pictures of the gully running from about 11,300′ to 13,800′ almost directly South from the Blue Lakes dam at the end of the road.

I headed West up the road, and ran into a van with a couple young guys who had passed and said the trail was closed. I couldn’t even imagine and told them I was going up to the dam and then up the snow. I think they decided to try it too, and they drove on up the road. I passed the next parking lot and sure enough, there was a trail closure sign on it, but I had no idea where that trail went, so I just continued on the road. I made really good time, and the snow got deeper, and I eventually passed them where the minivan straddled the road, digging out a spinning tire with an ice axe.

At the Blue Lakes Dam there were two forks to the ramp of snow heading up into the upper reaches of the mountain – about 2,500′ of snow climbing at a gentle 40 degrees give or take for most of it. I put my Black Diamond Contact Crampons on, swapped out my trekking poles for an ice axe, and took off up the ramp. I chose the right fork, which had a really nice steep spot, but I ended up on dirt for a bit, and had to carefully step (I didn’t want to de-crampon) over to an angled trail of snow back to the center of the couloir and up.

Shortly after I took a small break and looked down and realized I should have taken the left fork (climber’s left). Oh, well. The snow was nice and firm and there were both hiking and snowboard tracks to follow where it made sense. I got to the bottleneck about 13,200′ where there was a short line of not too steep, but very thin, hard, narrow ice in a groove between rocks. Great handholds on the rocks, so not a big deal. Soon after that the snow got softer, and sure enough, snowball missiles about the size of a watermelon started coming down from the cliffs above the center of the upper snow patch.

I watched for a gap and headed left and up to skirt the rocks along the left side and at about 13,500′ was punching through up to my knees on every step, so I waded over to the rocks and looked for firmer snow. It was obvious that the center of the gully was too dangerous, and the left side wasn’t firm enough anymore, so I took my crampons off and stowed them, and followed the many obvious goat paths up along the ridge toward the top, with only about 750′ to go.

The very top of this branch of the ridge skirted along a very deep ravine with steep cliffs and deep snow in the middle. Awesome looking over. A few sketchy moves here and there, but plenty of handholds so for me anyway, Class 3. YMMV. Soon it leveled off a bit, and I was on top. I hung out for about 15 minutes in the warm sun and since the East Ridge at the top was very slick hard ice, I put my crampons back on until I got down to about 13,800′ where I took them off again.

I ran into a few groups of older climbers and chatted a bit. At about 13,000′ I ran into a couple goats, and got some great pics. Soon after I ran into a guy on the way down who had been with one of the groups. We decided to hike sortof together the rest of the way down. He had Kahtoola MICROspikes on, so with his extra traction we leap-frogged down. We managed to get lost again, probably in the exact same spot, but I found the fork to get us back very quickly, and we were soon at the bottom.

It was a really fun hike, in spite of getting lost, and with more food and water in the pack than last time (last time I had a waist pack on, this time I had a hydration pack), it wasn’t too bad for recovering quickly.

Garmin Track of this adventure: CLICK HERE

Quandary Cristo Couloir March 28
 


Quandary East Ridge March 26 2012

Did a quick training hike on 14,265′ Quandary outside Breckenridge Colorado on Monday March 26 2012. Started about 7:30 and took approximately 2:08 (two hours eight minutes) to hit the summit in spite of wind gusts between 30 and 60 mph on the ridgeline. Made for really tough going. It was pretty warm at about 25 degrees (F) so I was dressed in Golite baggy tights (is that an oxymoron?), a Nike baselayer, Mountain Hardwear Super Hero hoodie, a Melenzana thin fleece hoodie, and my The North Face Better Than Naked windshirt.

I was testing my Salomon Men’s Spikecross 3 CS Trail Running Shoe, and they worked out pretty good overall, the spikes providing excellent traction on the way up, and mildly less on the way down. I wore Montbell softshell gaitors to keep the snow/slush out.

I was also experimenting with Black Diamond Ultra Distance Trekking Poles (Pair) and golly, were they great. They were very light and totally blew around like sails in the heavy winds. Pretty funny, actually. Loved them a lot. I had to use them carefully in the softer/deeper snow, since they have very small baskets.

There was fairly deep but mostly firm snow from about 11,400′ to 12,400′ and a lot of postholing. If I walked carefully in pre-packed footsteps I didn’t punch through, so it wasn’t too bad going. Above that there was very little snow at all. On the way down I managed to get lost and wandered too close behind the houses on the road to the South, but ran into a nice local walking his dog who directed me to a shortcut back to the trail. It was quite well trod btw so apparently I’m not the only one doing this.

Here’s my Garmin Track from this hike so you can see the map and stats.

Took me about 2:48 to return to the car, parked at the plowed pulloff. Last time I was here you could get all the way to the trailhead marker, so that string of storms a month ago added up to no plowing anyway. From the parking area Cristo Couloir looked totally doable, and the snow was pretty good early and high, so I figured it would be something fun to try in a couple days.

Quandary March 26
 


Quandary With Dallin – 10 year old on Colorado Fourteener

Did Quandary in Colorado. 14,265′ on July 9, 2011. Round Trip just under 6 hours – not bad for a 10 year old boy’s first Fourteener. Garmin Stats Here. We had a ton of fun, and got to see goats both up and down at around the 13,000′ level and managed to also get in Dallin’s first glissade, about 600′ on the Southwest Face, then we traversed back to the regular trail. Afterward we chilled with smoothies at the Breckenridge CO Starbucks.

Quandary with Dallin – 2011
 


Mixed Climbing Training in Ouray

Today I participated in a mixed climbing (basically rock climbing with ice climbing gear) training session. A few days ago when I realized my original plans for this weekend wouldn’t work out well, I contacted San Juan Mountain Guides to see if I could do a day of mixed climbing. They recommended Friday or Saturday and as I had a commitment for Thursday night (which I ended up cancelling anyway) I took Saturday. I shared the day with two other climbers, both from New Mexico.

It snowed the day before in this part of Colorado and the roads were a bit slick in places, but most significantly was the more than a foot of snow at the top and bottom of the cliffs and ice routes. In the photos you can see drifts of snow blowing off the tops and filling the bottom.

At the San Juan office in the Backstreet Bistro shop, I ran into Chad Peele, who I climbed with at the Ice Fest, and we chatted for a second. Our guide for the day was Eitan, who is a friend of Mark Allen’s (from my Liberty Ridge disaster) and we caught up for a few minutes on Mark’s shoulder injury. I had hung out with Mark and Eitan at the ice fest earlier in the year.

We headed out the Scottish Gullies to “mix it up”. I took a few extra pictures of the routes for Ryan to compare from the last time we climbed at the end of December. The weather started out at -4, and warmed up to around 33 in the sun by afternoon, so it wasn’t a bad day.

We got on Little Sausage (the short M4 we had worked a little on with Heidi wirtz at the ice fest) and Eitan gave us some tutoring on the basics the way he does it. This route has been a thorn in my side for a while now, having worked the far left crack system with Ryan, then working toward the middle with Heidi, and now with Eitan to the right side. None of us sent it, and we went over to Circling Vultures, the M7 route to the left of Tic Tac (pictures from which I had posted before).

On my turn I had given the camera to Eitan, and I’m glad I did. The bulging block was giving us all trouble, and I had worked out a stem to a left leaning hook in the ice, when suddenly I popped off, just as Eitan took the picture of my flying sideways through the air. It felt wild being mildly inverted from my harness and I managed to kick myself upright at the end of the pendulum, and keep my tools in hand ;)

After a good rest we went back to Little Sausage. Scot (one of the clients) managed to get to the top, and I managed to get about 8′ from the top and totally pumped out. I rested some but wasn’t getting my energy back at all. Scot sent it again, this time much faster and I decided to give it one more go.

I’m glad I did. I finally sent it, and in much better form than any of my previous attempts. I guess I learned something today about mixed climbing. We hiked out (I didn’t use the fixed rope either in or out for training purposes) and at the cars we noticed that everyone had fliers. Guess you can’t escape civilization even here. :(

Afterward I talked to Eitan about the North Cascades where he’ll be guiding this summer, about Baker and Shuksan. Both dream locations for me. I got late lunch at the Bistro – a Tuna Melt on croissant. Great way to end a hard day climbing.

Swan Mountain Traverse Wall – June 18 2011

I was watching the kids while Angie was away, so we went out to play at the Swan Mountain Traverse Wall between Dillon and Frisco Colorado. First we hiked and scrambled around some. This is important for kids to get their sense of adventure stoked. They had a lot of fun doing that, and this is a pretty safe place for it.

After that I set up a decent trad toprope anchor over our favorite corner and set them to climbing. Dallin and Brennan took turns belaying each other, and Dallin belayed Tan while I took pics. She was a little nervous, since she’d never been belayed by anyone but me or Mom before, but she was a trooper and got it worked out.

I then spent some time teaching the boys to rappel, which is an important skill, and I think 10 is a good age to learn it. I don’t think Brennan will remember yet, but it’s a start.

I had Dallin set up his own rappel system, and unclip from the top anchor for training. He was scared but I was able to talk him through it okay. I also had him help clean the anchor, so he could learn how to pull cams and tricams and rack them.

Tons of fun and great skills training all around.